Cycling in Puglia (May 2010)

DATE
Saturday 15 May Day (1) PUGLIA	TRAIN: Rome to Monopoli Pickup bikes in Monopoli. LOOP ride: Polignano -> Conversano -> Castellana Grotte ->back to Monopoli Total: 45 kms Stay Monopoli	The small little hamlet of San Vito is another great stop along the sea with plenty of great picture opportunities. Polignano a Mare, a postcard perfect whitewashed village overlooking the Adriatic: be sure to explore the old town's narrow winding streets and marvel at the incredible views of the bright blue sea. This town perhaps best known for its natural caves Grotte which are bored into the calcareous coastline by the constant scouring of wind and waves. Famous for its breathtaking cliff face, turquoise water of the sea and many caves in the rocks, named the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic Sea’. From Polignano pedal through groves of olive trees and to the cool limestone caves of Grotte di Castellana (considered the deepest caverns – 2 to 3 kms from town) in Italy. http://www.grottedicastellana.it/ What to see: The Franciscan Convent, with the attached church of Madonna della Vetrana, who according to the tradition saved the town from the plague in 1691. In the convent there is also a very ancient artistic crib. The celebrated Castellana Grottos, discovered speleologist Franco Anelli in 1938, a route winding between calcareus concretion of rare beauty. From the entrance grotto, the "Grave" there are underground passages and corridors - the Black Grotto, the Angel's Corridor, the Little Cavern of the Manger, the Cavern of the Precipice, and finally what is, according to many, the most beautiful grotto in the world for the purity of its crystalline concretions and alabaster, the splendid White Grotto, at 70 m. below ground-level, from which a lift service leads back to the surface. Conversano: Conversano encompassed in history, around 8 km from Castellana Grotte. Originally called Norba, its goes back to the iron age. Part of the Roman Empire, refounded by the Normans. Pretty shops and impressive Castle, it is a must to visit. Continue to Monopoli, a costal town with a beautiful aragonese castle and charming mix of Norman, Venetian-Byzantine and Arabic architecture. Monopoli boasts a charming historical center and a vibrant port where fisherman bring in the day’s catch. Visit the impressive 16th century castle, and shops and restaurants in the centre. Food market with its fresh fish, fruit and vegetables.
Sunday 16 May Day (2) PUGLIA	Monopoli-> Locorotondo via Eganzia (30 kms) Loop ride: Locorotondo->Alberobello->Martina Franca->Locorotondo (28 kms) Total: 58 kms Stay Locorotondo	From Monopoli to Torre Egnazia ruins, where you can see ancient wagon wheel tracks that along part of the old roman road; some of the best Roman ruins in the region. Egnazia, a Roman port city dating to the 5th century, where remnants of the ancient road to Rome, a beautiful Acropolis and other monuments still exist. Locorotondo: known as the Balcony of the Itria Valley for its stunning views, its trulli and carefully kept vineyards. Locorotondo is like a typical town in the Greek Islands with its whitewashed houses, cul-de-sacs and small squares. Puglia produces 17% of Italy’s wine and the whites produced here are very popular; you can sample from over 1000 vintners at the Cantina Sociale in town. With Greek origins it has one of the prettiest historical centres of the area. Also a fantastic place for a meal; well renowned restaurants are in abundance. Must taste the local Spumante!  LOOP Ride: Alberobello: Unesco World Heritage site. Alberobello boasts over 1500 trulli dating back to the 13th century, distinctive round stone buildings with conical slate roofs painted with strange symbols and framed by rich green farmland. Trulli are cone-shaped dwellings made of dry limestone, traditionally stacked without mortar. From Alberobello cycle to the 16th century baroque town of Martina Franca, an ancient city with stone walls, stunning piazzas and tiny winding streets. En-route pass through olive groves, vineyards and forested lands on quiet roads with very little traffic. Martina Franca: Baroque architecture can be found here, a pleasure for shopping, especially beautiful clothes.
Monday 17 May Day (3) PUGLIA	Locorotondo->Ostuni (24 kms) -> Mesagna (51 kms)-> Ceglie Messapica (83 kms) OR Locorotondo->Ostuni (24 kms) -> Mesagna (51 kms)->Francavilla Fontana (73 kms) Option: TRAIN to Ceglie Messapica Stay Ceglie Messapica	Midway, explore Cisternino, with great cafes and restaurants. Ostuni, known as the “white city” with its Arab influenced architecture and a labyrinth of streets. Ostuni is situated on three hills and enjoys an excellent panorama. At the foot of Ostuni the green silvery sea of olive groves merges with the blue of the Adriatic. It is an ancient, noble and famous town, known especially for its whitewashed houses that contrast with the pinkish brown stone of the monuments. If you walk through its narrow alleyways you will discover many an architectural feature at times hidden under the innumerable layers of white chalk. Mesagne: http://www.lacanto.it/mesagne-eng.html Ceglie Messapica: this loop ride takes you through a countryside filled with trulli and olive trees. You start with a steady climb before moving to a spectacular rolling road in the heart of the Murgia plateau. Ceglie Messapica, one of the ancient centres in Puglia, marks the hilly border of the Murge highlands to the South-East, opening its natural terrace to the Salento and the surrounding Brindisi plain. Ceglie Messapica was described as a stubborn but very hospitable city by the 19th Century travellers. Its staccato and open-vowelled dialect probably has a Balkan origin, which differs from the rhythmical and smooth Lecce dialect that has a Hellenic origin. Enjoy a walk of the quite, tiny centro storico and have a snack in one the bars in town. Remember though between 2 and 5pm the whole of Italy goes for a snooze and absolutely everything closes so don't go for a late lunch or pop out for supplies at this time! The restaurants are great.
Tuesday 18 May Day (4) PUGLIA	TRAIN: Dep Ceglie Messapica 757 Arr Gallipoli 1043 THEN: Cycle Gallipoli -> Maria dei Leuca Total: 51 kms Stay Maria dei Leuca	Continue all the way to Marina dei Leuca at the ‘southern tip of the boot’.
Wed 19 May Day (5) PUGLIA	Maria dei Leuca->Otranto 51 kms Stay Otranto	Cycle along the dramatic coastal road to Santa Cesarea Terme with unsurpassed architectural and natural beauty in one of Italy’s most serene locations. There are swimming opportunities along the way and some of the most stunning scenery in Italy. A summer beach resort, Otranto is one of the most delightful towns in southern Italy with a well-preserved historic town centre.
Thurs 20 May Day (6) PUGLIA	Otranto ->Lecce 49 kms Stay Lecce	Via the Large and Small Alimini Lakes, long shaped water extensions running parallel to the sea. The small one (also called Fontanelle) is a fresh water lake surrounded by marsh vegetation with marsh orchids and other rare plants such as the only carnivorous plant in Apulia. It is inhabited by cormorants, seagulls, egrets and ducks and it is linked to the Alimini Grande by a 1.5 km long canal providing it with freshwater. The biggest lake is a salt-marsh ecosystem which has a surface area of 1.37 km2. It is connected to the sea by its mouth that has been prepared as a little fishery where fish are bred. The south western part of the lake was planted with trees in the ‘50s and nowadays it is a hunting reserve while the south east part is a protected area characterized by typical Mediterranean vegetation. Lecce: the ‘Florence of the South’ with it's incredible medieval and Baroque piazzas and buildings, a beautifully preserved Roman ampitheatre and great speciality shops. Lecce Top Sights: Piazza del Duomo, or Cathedral Square, is a beautiful square with ornate buildings. Here you'll find the duomo, Cathedral of the Madonna Assunta, originally built in 1144 and completely restored in 1659-70 when the 70-meter tall bell tower was added. The Bishop's Palace and Seminary, two Baroque monuments, are also in the square. Via Vittorio Emanuale is the main street lined with shops and cafes that runs between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza Sant'Oronzo. Along the street you'll find the tourist information office and Church of San Giovanni Battista. Roman Amphitheater was built in the second century AD and once held 25,000 spectators. The amphitheater is partially excavated but monuments have been built above most of it. You'll see the remians near Sant'Oronzo Square where there's a Roman column topped by a copper statue of Saint Oronzo, the city's patron saint. Church of Santa Chiara, famous for its ceiling with paper mache' decorations, is a short distance from the amphitheater. Archaeological Museum, open only on weekday mornings, and remains of a Roman theater, discovered in 1929, that once held 6000 spectators are behind Santa Chiara. Basilica of Santa Croce, on Via Umberto I, has a richly decorated facade and is considered the emblem of the city. Next to the church is Palazzo Celestini, a former monastery that's now a government building. Behind it are the municipal gardens. Castle of Charles V was built in the 16th century and was the royal residence. Next to it is the Opera House. Provincial Museum, on Viale Gallipoli, currently has free admission and houses important finds from the city and the region.
Fri 21 May Day (7) PUGLIA	TRAIN: Lecce to Monopoli Return bikes TRAIN: Monopoli to Bari then another to Matera Stay Matera